When I owned Cactus Punch, I had a staff of amazing artists. If you want something tested on a specific fabric, you’ll need to provide that fabric for testing. You’re on your own to find that if you don’t do embroidery yourself. When you send a design to Lindee G Embroidery for custom digitizing, I do that work and Bill likely test sews it. I don’t send your design out to some service in Asia for digitizing.Actual test sewouts are no longer sent (they won’t email). I’ll also include an PDF of the work sheet so you know where the color changes are. I can convert to any popular machine format (ART is not a machine format) or provide a native EMB. Then when the payment is received, I’ll email you the design. Once you’ve put your final stamp of approval on it, I’ll send you an invoice and charge your credit card. You can still make changes and in all likelihood if you do, I’ll need to sew it again. Then I’ll scan the design and send it to you for approval. It’s likely I may be using different thread colors than you will unless you happen to use the same brand of thread I do. Machine setup and sewing time are billable. In the interest of minimizing time, I may not use the exact threads you’ll use or do any specialty techniques. I usually only need to test sew one time.Īnd yes, I have to sew it because there are things you see when sewing that aren’t apparent on the screen. Once you give the go ahead, I’ll test sew it. On complex designs, I’ll send you a screen capture of how it looks so you can make any change requests before it’s stitched. I didn’t use to do this up front but I’ve been stiffed too many times. Once we agree to work together and I have your artwork, I’ll need a valid credit card. Unless you have a specific requirement, I will use which ever program will give me the best result in the least amount of time. I’m now proficient enough in Wilcom Embroidery Studio to produce a native EMB file. WHAT I USE FOR DIGITIZINGįrom 1995 to 2018, I exclusively used Punto. That includes any drawings you make that look suspiciously like a cartoon character, Disney princess, etc. I don’t digitize anything that could violate a trademark or copyright. Obviously, if the work is not your own, I’ll need a release statement from the copyright holder. Good digitizing starts with good artwork. If the image is a bitmap (jpg, tiff, png, etc.) it needs to be at least 300 dpi at actual size. If I have to clean up the artwork, that’s more billable time. I once digitized a design from a sweater. Other things include scans or photos of paintings and charcoal sketches. I have worked from crayon, colored pencils, graphite pencil (and turned it into a 4 color design), photos, old embroidery, greeting cards, and napkin sketches. You can see from the range of designs in my shop (all of which I’ve done myself) that I can do anything from standard filled designs to efficient redwork, intricate free-standing lace, applique and other techniques.įor the shortest digitizing time, I need good clean artwork, preferably high resolution vector (AI or EPS). I’ve done custom digitizing for most of the machine companies, Sulky, Martha Pullen, major cartoon brands, corporations such as Borden, Iams, Valvoline, Proctor & Gamble, Richard Petty, plus many smaller companies as well as individuals. I believe in quality and I take the time to do things right. My previous background includes a degree in art and years of programming and sewing. I’m an experienced digitizer with decades of practice (I started in 1994) and I use professional software. You can see from the range of designs in my shop (all of which I’ve done myself) that I can do anything from standard filled designs to efficient redwork, intricate free-standing lace, applique and other techniques. MY BACKGROUND I’m an experienced digitizer with decades of practice (I started in 1994) and I use professional software. If you’re looking for cheap digitizing services, that’s not me. Yes, I still do some custom digitizing as my schedule permits.
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